How To: Platinum Card Technique ft. Julie Facer @headrushdesigns
By: Kenra Professional
Creating a blonde using highlights is one thing but lightening the entire head to create a blonde beauty is a whole other animal. It takes time, patience, precision, and skill. Below, Julie Facer, @headrushdesigns, lays out a simple and straightforward approach to global on-scalp lightening on short curly hair using Simply Blonde Beyond Bond Lightener and a staggered approach to developer volumes to ensure clean and consistent lift.
In the video below, Julie states that she’ll start with foils about ¼” to ½” off of the scalp first, and then move to the roots. This is done in order to get the ends to the level needed before applying lightener to the scalp, since the hair near the scalp lifts faster (the body’s natural heat accelerates the lift). Using Beyond Bond Lightener is great for global applications because it allows for maximum integrity and care to both the inner and outer bonds of the hair for a beautiful, healthy result.
Step 1: Starting at the back of the head, apply lightener to the hair in back-to-back foils ¼” off of the scalp, using very thin slices to ensure proper saturation . Pro Tip: Start by using Simply Blonde Beyond Bond Lightener mixed with 10 Volume Developer rather than 20 Volume and move to 20 Volume later in the application, to ensure even lift throughout the head. Continue working up the head in a brick lay pattern and switch to 20 Volume Developer if you see fit, depending on how the hair is lifting.
Step 2: Once a general mohawk section has been formed and you have made it to the apex of the head, switch body positioning and placement of foils to the hairline. Switching back to 10 Volume Developer on the hairline will help control any uneven lifting as the front hairline typically lifts quickly on its own. Continue working back until you meet the point that is already foiled from the back. Once that is complete, check the foils in the back to ensure the lifting is up to speed, and continue processing until the hair is at least a level 9.
Step 3: Once the last foil has processed to a pale yellow, begin pulling out the foils from the back to slow down the processing—knowing that you can reapply lightener all over in the on-scalp application. Begin applying a fresh bowl of lightener mixed with 20 Volume Developer to the scalp, starting at the nape and working upwards. Work quickly and efficiently while making sure to have proper saturation. Using gloves, feel free to use your fingers to further saturate the lightener into the hair. In this example, the model’s hair on the sides and back was too short to foil, so the lightener is applied to that hair from scalp to ends. As you work into the areas where foils were in place, go back and check to see that proper saturation has occurred, and be on the lookout for any areas that may not have lifted consistently, and then reapply lightener to those areas.
Step 4: Continue this process on the front and sides, removing foils once ready and applying lightener at the scalp, paying close attention to the sides and hairline, ensuring that the entire head is covered with lightener. The hair at the scalp will lift quickly and become consistent with the hair previously in foils. Continue checking the hair for integrity and lift, and once ready, shampoo using Kenra Platinum Restorative Shampoo and Conditioner prior to toning.
Step 5: Tone according to the desired result using demi-permanent color. In this tutorial, Julie used two different toning formulas for a truly custom finish with a shadow rooted effect. At the roots and on the sides and back where the hair is shorter, she used equal parts of Kenra Color Demi-Permanent 10V, 10SM, and 9VM at a 1:2 ratio with 9 Volume Activator on damp hair. On the mid-lengths and ends of the longer hair, she used a combination of 10V, 10SM, 9VM, as well as Clear Gloss. Process for up to 25 minutes and shampoo once more with Kenra Platinum Restorative Shampoo and Conditioner. Then, style as desired!